Thursday, 5 March 2015

Plankton bloom 28Feb 2015

Reflections on the recent Plankton bloom in the east of Singapore.Note that these views are purely opinionated and does not represent each individuals' perspective.



So just what is the plankton bloom all about?It is the accumulation of algae/phytoplankton in a water system.Many factors induce this rapid increase of the microscopic organisms.but it all leads down to the basic 4 requirements of algae; Sunlight,warm temperatures and availability of oxygen as well as a high concentration of nitrates.

As a fisherman and a fellow environmental and aquarium enthusiast I'm here to represent my views of the current situation that has caused a devastation and a mass killing of hundreds of fishes primarily in the eastern parts of Singapore(Sembawang,West coast,Woodlands not as affected).This has definitely caused a halt to all fishing activities for us Saltwater anglers.

There was a video that featured the chairman of aquaculture of Singapore, Philip Lim,being interview in regards to the situation that fish farmers were facing out at sea to sustain a healthy livestock.
He had mentioned several good points such as landfill and dredging works done by the various environmental agencies( to ensure that sand erosion was prevented) which played a role in water pollution.also there was lots of ranting on how AVA was not playing a part in ensuring that the algae bloom was controlled or prevented altogether.
He stated that the kelongs were sustaining the ecology and that the environmental agencies weren't.I see many issues with this one sided argument and began to form my own views about this matter.

It takes 2 hands to clap and definitely both are at fault which had inevitably started all this.
So I'm here to list down 4 reasons on how the surrounding kelongs had played a part to cause this catastrophy as well.

1) Harvesting of shellfish
 on a large scale.Every week we go out to sea and realise that the mussels along the barrels at Pasir Ris seem to have been scraped off.rocks are often wiped clean of any form of shellfish as well.how is there a link to any of this?Shellfish are filter feeders and are known to be introduced in certain countries to relieve the plankton population in water bodies.the consume large amounts of plankton an other substances such as heavy metals.they are known to be voracious filter feeders which can wipe clean an aquarium if introduced.A drastic reduction of them was seen throughout the days counting down to the bloom. 

2)Harvesting of crustaceans
harvesting of crustaceans such as crabs and prawns from the sea.I've been told by many that kelongs are responsible for the drastic removal of these scavenges of the sea bed with an average haul of 5kg on a bad day to 8kg on a good day.what does that equate to?a build up in dead matter on the sea bed.which leads up to a concentration of ammonia and nitrites in the water.the same components that encourage algae growth in many aquariums.We learn from aquarium keeping that nitrates are eventually removed with consistant water changes.though it is true that the sea easily replenishes itself in an instant,this is not the case of Pasir Ris which is known to have a slow undercurrent and a poor exchange of water during the low and high tide.this would also explain why Pasir Ris was hit the hardest.

3)Drift Netting
drift nets are used by kelongs excessively to bring up wild caught fishes such as snappers,barramundi,breams and feeder fish which are lucrative in the market. It is also the cheapest method of obtaining food for their livestock. Bycatch is always an issue with this method of fishing as undesirable fishes are tossed back into the ocean with a 10%-20% survival rate after being trapped in the nets for a long time as well as being in the nets on board the farms for a long duration.this adds to the loss in biodiversity in the waters.feeder fishes are also reduced significantly from the environment which leads to a reduction in the bigger sized fishes.Net are everywhere in the east.places which are permitted and even some which aren't which challenges the integrity of some farmers.they stretch as fair as a 100M and trap anything in it's path.

4)The Structure Itself
Kelongs hold up to a few hundred fishes at a time as most of you saw the video of the dead fishes floating in the containment nets.what does this mean?a concentration of fish waste.Fishes with big appetites and even bigger waste.this concentration of waste helps promote algae growth with a combination of Singapore's humid weather it is a recipe for disaster.

but they've been doing this trait for such a long time so how does this make sense?the sudden increase in the amount of kelongs in Singapore's waters especially around Ubin and Pasir Ris.a few years ago there weren't as many of them as there were lets face it.This year was one of the worst blooms ever.However it might just be a coincidence. I grew up in Pasir Ris and kelongs were quite an interesting sight which has now become an anglers most hated thing.more kelongs means more netting therefore there is almost nothing significant that ventures near to shore(in terms of fishes)

thanks for taking the time to read this post!once again these are just personal opinions!
 

Monday, 15 December 2014

flower crab soup recipe


FLOWER CRAB SOUP RECIPE



If you're wondering how to cook your flowercrabs and you just want a simple recipe to make delicious home cooked crabs then look no further because this recipe is idiot proof.

this is best for small and medium sized flower crabs that wont have much to offer if you just fry them.
flower crabs have a natural sweet taste that will go well when made into a soup.
mud crabs can never achieve this flavour.

lets get started!

RECIPE:
1kg Flower Crab
1 pack Enoki mushrooms aprx.200g or more
3 sprig Spring Onion
2 Litres Chicken broth(Swanson or Knorr is fine)
5 tbsp Evaporated Milk
2 tbsp Oyster sauce
30g minced Ginger
3 Tbsp Chinese Cooking Wine

METHOD:


add everything into a pot except the chinese cooking wine and evapourated milk
bring to boil for half an hour to ensure crabs are all fully cooked and bacteria has mostly all been eliminated.
dont worry about toughness because crabs are nicer to eat with firmer meat and also fresh caught crabs wont toughen up as easily.




add the evapourated milk and chinese cooking wine and boil for 2mins.turn off heat and serve.
you may chose to add eggs into the soup. best consumed with rice.



*burp*
meal good enough for 3 pax.

cheers!
-Abel

Sunday, 14 December 2014

Kayakims 7/12/14 crabbing kings

Hi we're back with a new session of kayak fishing!the last time you saw us,we had invested in inflatable kayaks but since then we have sold them away cheaply and purchase hardshell kayaks!

kayaks in review today are the EMOTION SPITFIRE 09 series which is basically the cheapest on the market for legitimate hardshell boats.

if you're curious the lagoon 1 was sold at $250(so cheap??!!) with the paddles but no lifevest!
Sevylor K2 kayak is still up for grabs if anyone is interested!it comes with paddles and a basic lifevest!how much?$200 only!lelong lelong!

okay before we begin with our catch report let us first introduce you to the SPITFIRE 09 boat.

we got them both at $450 each secondhand of course(Ghetto FTW)! this kayak is one of the smallest kayaks ever made with a weight capacity of 150kg!it comes with a dry storage compartment between the legs and an in-built seat! tracking is good and it is sturdy even with strong currents.it makes a very good beginner boat and best of all,it is small and easy to store because it fits into most HDB flat lifts!

Sit on top versus covered top kayaks?
sit on top boats are better because it allows you to land a fish and handle a fish better with a flat smooth surface(once you see the photos you'll understand).


BACK TO FISHING!FINALLY?!
it may sound like a drag to read all because not everyone is willing to spend a fortune just for kayak fishing.BUT BUT if you invest a little every month you will find it not as financially straining.what am I talking about? our inflatable boats were purchased at $250 and after working for a few months and saving up,all we had to do is sell the inflatable boats and use $200 of our own money only and it has gotten us this far.


SETUP

equipment:
ABU GARCIA tournament medium action rod with SHIMANO arenos XT 5000 reel
Storm Gomoku light action rod with ABU GARCIA rocket 6500 black reel

Generally Pasir Ris beach currents are calm and there isnt a need to use excessively heavy sinkers so light tackle is also suitable.

rigs:
running ball sinker rigs with size 10 ball sinkers and MUSTAD circle hook size 1/0,all attached with 60LB transparent cheapo fishing line. nothing fancy just a simple setup.here's the rig design that we got online.


SETTING OUT!
we started off at the most convenient location which was at Pasir Ris Beach WATERCROSS why there?because they had a ram and nice terrain to launch the boats.

we paddled towards the commando camp and stopped at the blue barrels just opposite the last breakwaters. there we attached ourselves to the barrels and dropped our lines into the water.
 
half an hour in and there was this consistent tugging on the line for both our rods!as we reeled in,it felt heavy but there wasn't a struggle so our best guess was that a small eel was on the line but as it surface....NOPE!it was a flowercrab! hahahas it was holding onto the squid bait so tightly!so meh just keep it since it was a good size and see where this goes.

just after dropping the line for 5mins,we had another crab!this one had eggs!this was taken at changi but the picture is just for reference.
this occured about 6 times.out of that,3 were kept and the others were released because they were small.
 
after our unexpected "crabbing" session we headed out further towards the Lorong Halus Dam/jetty to try our luck there for actual fish!O.O

an hour in while reeling in more crabs,FINALLY a legit bite and a good fight.though it was a small fella,it sure fought well.consistent bending of the gomoku rod but no line was taken out. we brought it on board to remove the hook and it was promptly released! it was estimated to weigh about 1kg!

it was quiet and not a single nibble was felt.it has rained the night before as well which explains the feeding activity today!

we reeled in 3 more crabs and SWEE LA!crab dinner tonight!note to self:bring a crab pot to kayak as well next time!

the current was increasing due to some construction infront of us therefore there were plenty of big boats that were coming and going.dedris was also getting from bad to worse as mud and sand were being kicked up by the machinery ahead of us.
So we made the decision to head off soon before things get worse.just when we were about to leave....a heavy tug was felt and it was out last catch for the day!
We don't really enjoy eating catfish so we released this big fella to grow even bigger in hopes we'll cross paths again. 
dark clouds began to form before us as well and a slight drizzle was felt so we headed back to shore.
but not empty handed of course!a total of 12 crabs were caught ironically using  rod and reel!

PACK UP?!what's that never heard of it...opps...no more scrubbing and drying the inflatable kayaks just a quick rinse of the hardshell and it's back to storage until next time!

what about the crabs?we decided to make soup and found an online recipe for it.
here's what ours looked like before you view the recipe below:





SOURCE: Tasty Flower Crab Soup (็พŽๅ‘ณ่Šฑ่Ÿนๆฑค). (n.d.). Retrieved December 14, 2014, from http://www.luxuryhaven.co/2012/04/tasty-flower-crab-soup.html

Ingredients:
1 Flower Crab
250g Enoki
1 sprig Spring Onion
500ml Chicken broth
5 tbsp Carnation Evaporated Milk
1 tso Oyster sauce
½ tsp Salt
! tsp minced Ginger
2 tsp Chinese Cooking Wine

Method:
  1. When choosing crab, get one with roes for tastier soup base.
  2. Wash crab thoroughly. Remove crab legs by twisting & pulling them off. Loosen shell by lifting it, then turning crab over to remove shell by peeling it apart from body as shown in pix .
  3. how to choose flower crabs
  4. Dispose gills from body. Rinse crab.
  5. choosing flower crabs
  6. Crack the legs.
  7. chinese cooking flower crabs
  8. Cut off roots from Enoki & set aside.
  9. japanese enoki mushrooms recipe
  10. Heat broth & add crabs. Simmer for about 10 mins. Over-cooking will turn meat tough.
  11. tasty flower crab soup recipe
  12. Add Enoki, Spring Onion, Milk, seasonings & stir well. Lastly, add wine to your aromatic soup & you’re ready to serve your tasty dish!
  13. asian cooking chinese flower crab soup

    thanks for viewing and do remember to leave comments below for any feedback and like us on FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/FishingKims

    cheers and peace out!

Monday, 29 September 2014

setting up your first saltwater tank

Hi all back for a new post on aquarium keeping!the last time we had an introduction to freshwater keeping but this time we'll be discussing about setting up a saltwater marine tank!



first things first,price.
marine tanks dont come cheap even for a simple 1-2ft tank.an estimated cost of $200 is required to set up everything and that's just the basics.
maintenance cost would be about $50 every 3-4 months so do take into consideration before making the tank.


1) TANKS:

basic plain tank:$30-$60
basic in-build filter(IOS) tank:$80-$120


2) SUBSTANCES

seasalt: $30
dechlorinator: $1.50-$3 per bottle
nitrifying bacteria solution(optional): $12

3) EQUIPMENT:

cooling fan:$5-$20
lights:$20-$50
thermometer:$2
protein skimmer:$20-$25
powerhead:$5-$10

4) SUBSTRATE:

Live rocks: $7/kg
Sand/gravel:$5-$10

5) OTHERS EQUIPMENT(OPTIONAL BUT BENEFICIAL):

gripper/tweezers:$5
fine net:$1-$2
water pump(for water changes):$3
containment tank:$5

Pictorial Appendix below for any items you are unclear of.

Built in filter(IOS) fish tank











regular fish tank











Anti-chlorine
Dechlorinator







powerhead pump











small compact protein skimmer
dymax or boyu brand









compact cooling fan









aquarium LED lights










STEP 1:FILTRATION ARRANGEMENT

arrange your equipment neatly in the tank and make most of them easily accessible.this is important for maintenance purposes. example:if you're using an in built filter tank you can add the protein skimmer in as well so the filtration would be a smooth flow.

Sump tank filtration tankhttp://briansaquariumcare.com/customfiltersumps.html
this is the best explanation on building a sump tank
arrangement of filtration is the same just that you would have a larger filtration system that will help maintain the water quality better.
definitely a more efficient system with more space.
benefit of having a separate sump thank is that you will not be able to see the filtration components.
one that we personally build under $20
overall appearance for the sump and main tank.
sump tanks are easy to build and if you can get cheap materials,it'll be even better.as of now we're learning how to construct a sump system so do bear with us on this as we're new ourselves.

Inbuilt filtration (IOS) tank: most likely,there are already components added by your local fish store that you have bought the tank from.in the even that you do not have those items do make it a point to make a checklist for the filtration media you would require.
the difference between an in built sump tank and a separate one is the limitation of space.for example,you cannot squeeze the protein skimmer in the ISO tank or can you add marine algae(natural filtration) into your IOS tank or risk getting the whole filtration system jammed.


but in every filtration system the same basic components are needed to successfully run a marine tank.

MECHANICAL:sponge filter
these vary on brand and quality.but a basic sponge will cost you no more than $3.00
this should be your first line of defense of the filtration process it removes any obvious particles/dirt/dust/solid contaminants.


BIOLOGICAL: ceramic ring or stones
most expensive filtration media but it's a one time purchase thing and a must in the filtration.a small 500g pack will go up to $10.00-$20.00
this should be your second line of filtration which will house beneficial bacteria that will remove harmful ammonia from the tank water.


CHEMICAL: Active Carbon
these go around $2.00 for a pack that can last you for months with a small tank.relatively cheap and a good idea to add these in.
removes more harmful chemicals like heavy metals and purifies the water improving the water quality so much more.



all arranged in order.
                                               Mechanical >> Biological >> Chemical










STEP 2: MIXING SUBSTANCES

MIXING SALTWATER

mixing of saltwater and cycling your tank are the essential must know things to maintain a saltwater tank.it is always easier to make your own saltwater instead of transporting saltwater from the store or going to the beach on a weekly basis to gather heavy amount of water to use.

ultimately the safest is to use saltwater mixes.
you can't just use your average cooking sea salt to mix so dont try that.you need salt that has beneficial nutrients and trace elements in them.

what brand? TROPIC MARIN (refer to picture below)
best brand ever and most reliable to me since they've been around for the longest of time.


























there are instructions on the packaging to mix the saltwater.
Before adding the salt into the water, do ensure that you add dechlorinator into the tap water that you have prepared in the bucket.

floating glass hydrometer



ADJUSTING SALINITY

next add the salt accordingly.a powerhead would speed up the mixing process and save you a ton of manual labour. mixing process should be left for at least an hour to stir and mix evenly.
at the end of the mixing process, place your hydrometer in and ensure that it is in the "green" safe zone of salinity.
readings should be between 1.022-1.026 to be safe.

I personally prefer the floating kind however because it is made of thin glass do becareful not to break it.

the water will be cloudy and murky at first but don't worry it will settle and be clear after a period of time.






STEP 3: CYCLING THE TANK

add the sand/gravel into the tank and stack your live rock accordingly to preference.

slowly add the saltwater into the fish tank(do not stir too much sand and gravel up if you can) and turn on the filter powerhead.this is where cycling your tank begins.

so just what is the nitrogen cycle? simple explaination. waste from food or from living things produces ammonia.

ammonia is very harmful to any living creature even us humans.

bacteria that grows naturally from the presence of ammonia(hazardous) breaks it down to nitrite(hazardous) and eventually to nitrates(non-hazardous fish safe)

every water change removes the nitrates.... and done.that's all you need to know.

throw a piece of raw meat like prawns or fish(very small piece) and allow the the tank to run for 1-2 weeks.
remove the piece of meat and dispose at least 3 days before the end of the cycling process

you can also speed up the process of cycling the tank by adding beneficial bacteria in as well.


you can purchase an ammonia tester kit or get your local fish store to test the water for you.when the water is fish safe you can start considering what type of fish to keep.
However if you want to be more assured that your ammonia levels are down you can always buy ammonia removing solutions.a bottle like this will set you back at about $10.00.








STEP 4:CHOOSING FISH

now that all your parameters are stable and your beneficial bacteria has grown you can start adding fish!

dont just throw in any fish!

UNDERSTAND THE PARAMETERS OF YOUR TANK

a good way to gauge if your tank is ready for fish is to test the temperature and salinity of the tank.
assuming that your ammonia levels are down.
salinity should be at 1.022-1.025 to be safe as mentioned before(reminder)

most important factor of your tank is the temperature.marine fishes unlike freshwater fishes prefer lower temperatures.a temperature below 28oC will be the best and is definitely the limit to allow your fish to be comfortable and live a full life.

low temperatures are also essential for corals if you're considering to get them the future.


starter fish:

A good and cheap saltwater fish to start of, would be clown fish. they are very hardy and tolerant to changing water parameters(not for very prolong periods of time).they are so hardy that some aquarist use them to cycle the tank.

I got these guys for $2/each and they're doing well

If you're into fishing,you could also keep the small fishes you catch in the tank.take note on the size of your tank before doing this.do also note that if you use a dechlorinator solution for the water you cannot consume the fishes that you place in. wild fishes are not attracted to prepared foods so easily so you need to entice them to feed else they will die.Gobies,cardinals and perches are a good start for wild fish.


if you do choose to get fish from the aquariums instead do look out for certain factors:

1)eating well(if staff members allow you to let you observe feeding)
2)no signs of physical damage on body,fins,tail etc.
3)no white spots visable
4)swimming straight and actively

a good website to view that can guide you into getting the right fish would be:

LINK: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium-fish-supplies.cfm?c=15


Let's go through a general guide for those interested in keeping store bought fish.
checklist:
find out the diet of the fish that the pet store is feeding.
check out the substrate requirements(live rock hiding spaces or sand/gravel)
clownfish

fire fish goby

wrasse(not all are easy to keep so do research on diff species)

cleaner shrimps(reef compatible and cleans the tank well)
fox face fish(requires 2ft tank or more)

azure damsel fish

STEP 5: ACCLIMATING

You can't just throw in marine fishes into the tank and expect them to do well.maybe you might be lucky and get away with it but 90% of the time,if the fish isn't acclimated,they will stress out and either die or be susceptible to diseases such as ICH!

Don't be fooled. ICH is very common in clownfish especially and it is wise to choose a fish that has been in the aquarium shop for quite some time.do also observe whether the fish is healthy before purchasing.best bet is to ask the aquarium how long the fish has been in the shop.probably about 2 weeks would be a safer bet.

back to acclimating!

I'm sure you've seen many shows whereby they float the bag in the water 
why is this done? this is to ensure that the temperature of the water slowly changes inside the bag to the same temperature as your tank water, so the fish will not stress out at the sudden decrease or increase of temperature.


open the bag and float it in the tank.while you're doing this,add small amounts of tank water into the bag slowly. Preferably no more than 50ml every 10-15 mins and the process will take about 2 hours.this is the part that everyone finds tedious but i can assure you it's the safest and best way for a long lasting fish tank.
why do you do this?to allow the fishes to adjust themselves to the salinity of your fish tank water.

DRIP ACCLIMATION:
drip acclimation is also a more delicate way of introducing new fish to the system and will allow your fish to feel more comfortable.
feel free to see this recommended youtube video on how it's done!
LINK FOR FISH DRIP ACCLIMATION: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMCKF6DBs1w





at this point you can add small amounts of fish food in to see if the fishes are used to eating them.
next step is introduction.slowly pour the fish out into the main tank and allow them to swim freely and explore their new surroundings.

DO NOT ADD THE BAG WATER.gently net the fish up and promptly add them into the tank

DOs:
1) do let them swim freely
2) observe them and see if they are comfortable with the rock arrangements(hiding spaces..etc.)

DON'Ts:
1) don't make fast or sudden movements
2) don't poke or agitate them with objects
3) don't turn on lights for the first few hours(unless it is really dark)
4) don't stick your hand in the tank too often while the fish are new
5) don't add any food in the tank unless you're absolutely certain they will eat it immediately







STEP 6:FEEDING AND PARAMETER ADJUSTMENTS


ADJUSTMENTS

now that you've successfully set up a marine tank,it's time to regulate the parameters which is the most important thing.none can be more important than...

SALINITY
ensure the floating hydrometer stays within the green zone and do not go above or below.

if the hydrometer sinks too much it means that your water is too fresh and you need to add more salt
if the hydrometer floats higher it means that the water is too salty and salinity is too high so you should add decholorinated water.

TEMPERATURE
ensure that temperature stays at 28 degrees or below and do not exceed 29.
use a cooling fan if you must but do invest in a good one and it'll be worthwhile to have.
cooling fans will effectively lower the water temperature by 3-4 degrees but do note that because it promotes evaporation,you have to consistently add freshwater top ups.

alternatively you can purchase a mini chiller for $170 if you are running a 10-20 gallon(30-60Litres) tank.
I recommend the AL30 model which can be purchased in Singapore from:
LINK: http://www.eastoceansg.com/al30-mini-chiller-for-10l-to-30l-tank-p-1668.html
fully adjustable mini chiller from 10-30 degrees Celsius

FEEDING
choosing the right food for the right fish is the most important.you can set up everything successfully but in the end,if the fish isn't eating well it will get weaker and eventually die.

most marine fishes eat brine shrimp(dead or live) that can be bought from most aquariums for $3.00 a pack which will last you for a month if you keep less than 5 fishes.


dried pellet food is always the best and causes less pollution which doesn't cause ammonia spikes in the tank if over fed.
I've been using this for my clowns and they are eating really well








STEP 7: MAINTENANCE


WATER TOP UPS

if you're like me and just cannot afford a legitimate chiller for your tank,you can try using a cooling fan.
cooling fans are cheap and not as power consuming as chillers.
however using a cheaper alternative cooling method has its disadvantages.Evaporation is the main issue. a cooling fan can evaporate about 1-2 gallons of water everyday and it is necessary to top up the tank with freshwater to maintain a stable salinity.
you can make this task more convenient by storing dechlorinated water in a bottle so you do not have to keep mixing the anti chlorinator everyday.

a good method is to mark your tank's water level and if it falls below that mark you can top it up to the same level.



WATER CHANGE

water changes will solve most of your problems if you detect that parameters are off.
do a water change every 2 weeks and change 10-20% of your saltwater from your tank.
ensure salinity of the new saltwater is same or very close to that of the tank to avoid any stress on the fish.

do not clean the sand/gravel unless absolutely necessary. marine tanks require mature substrate to thrive especially if you intend of keeping crustaceans(shrimps,crabs etc)

how do you change?instead of inserting a pail into the tank and freaking out all the fishes,there is a much easier and inconspicuous way.Simply by using a plastic water pump that will do all the work for you.do not allow nozzle of the pump to touch the bottom where is sand or gravel is or it will be stucked up as well.


CLEANING FILTRATION

PROTEIN SKIMMER
remove the collection cup and pour away all the scum that is present inside and wash it well before replacing it back.(weekly basis)
collection cup

PIPING
sometimes, an overgrowth of algae may happen in the piping and it is advise to use a thin cleaning brush to it wipe away to ensure a smooth flow of water.(monthly or bi-monthy is fine)


FILTRATION MEDIA
remove your sponge filter and wash it clean.(weekly basis)

bio filters are usually left alone and not washed.washing will rid the media of the beneficial bacteria therefore it is not necessary to wash it unless it is clogging up with dirt and algae.even so only wash the bio media 50% or less clean to ensure there is still sufficent beneficial bacteria still on.(yearly basis)










DISEASE AND CONTROL
ICH disease on a clownfish

so far I've only encountered the ICH disease in my tank.
white spots are the best indication

if left untreated for awhile, gills may appear inflamed slightly and body colour starts to dull.
swimming patterns become strange and fishes will start rubbing against rocks or gravel/sand.

solution:
Isolate your fish if you have a containment tank
increase water temperature to 28-29 degrees Celsius.
ICH parasites lifecycle is sped up with the increase of temperature.

remove your active carbon and turn off your protein skimmers as these will render the medication ineffective.

buy ICH medication solutions. and follow the instructions on the label.
recommended and used by most aquariums and does not harm corals or invertebrates 

the ICH parasite has a lifespan of 5 days without a fish host
however if you only have 1 tank like me, you would require the full indicated dosage of 2 weeks to cure.at this point,the fishes will be weak and will not eat as much.fatality may happen so don't be disheartened.(sorry to all the fish lovers but that's why you always start with captive bred clownfish for starters).







STEP 8: CORAL CARE
Once you've been running your marine tank for a month,you're all ready for corals if your temperature and current flow allows it.
the level of difficulty is different for every coral and must be carefully considered and researched before purchasing.
photosynthetic corals are safer for beginners who tend of forget supplementation or feeding. of course if you're one to pay less attention to your aquarium,then preferably you should stick to artificial coral inserts instead.

Equipment you will need:

lighting(for photosynthetic corals)

GENERAL RULE:
florescent T5 lighting:4 watts per gallon
LED lighting:1-2 watts per gallon
LEDs do work for coral growth and are energy saving as well as cooler(do not heat up)

what's the difference? for every 5 watts florescent lights produce about 3 watts is wasted on heat. florescent also lasts shorter then LEDs but the benefit of having that is the PAR.basically means the light penetration properties.
Cheap LED's tend not to penetrate easily and are not effective for corals.instead,invest in good wattage and higher PAR level LEDs and they'll support the corals needs and it will also be less power consuming in the long run.
just a guideline I found online.
  

Current:
A wave maker or powerhead can be useful for a bigger tank because the flow rate will be lower and the filter return powerhead just isn't that effective to generate a proper current.
depending on the size of our tank,invest in a good wave maker and it'll make a world of difference for the tank.some corals require current to remove any dirt or particles that are stuck.this reduces the irritation and allows the corals to open up well.

HAMMER CORAL

they are about $20.00-$30.00 depending on size
hammer corals are one of the most beautiful corals to have in your aquarium.Anemones require more advanced expertise and care and hammers are the next best thing with similar characteristics. they are photosynthetic and do well with actinic lighting(blue light) that isn't too bright or intense(LED).
they are more of an advanced coral and should only be kept with more experienced.

they should be placed at the mid section of the tank with some shade covering as they do not do so well with intense lighting unlike SPS corals. temperature of 28 degrees is required.

FEATHER DUSTERS

feather dusters are filter feeding worms.yes they are in fact worms but very beautiful ones. they require a more mature tank environment but if your tank has no natural micro plankton available,you can buy them in powder or liquid form.
these can be placed any area of the tank and has no temperature preference
powder plankton:$3.00-$5.00
liquid plankton solution:$10.00-$15.00 

corals are very sensitive to their environment.a sudden shift in temperature,PH and salinity will affect them greatly.water changes need to be consistent if you are considering to keep them.


POLYPS and ZOAS

they come in a variety of colours but most are green and red.very easy to keep and are photosynthetic
most aquarist place them at the bottom or mid section of the live rock section.
temperature of 28 degrees with low or moderate flow will be good.

temp of 28 degrees the most.


MUSHROOMS

these are the most hardy among all beginner corals and are relatively worry free.
they come in blue,red and green and some even orange.
placement will be from bottom to top but do acclimate them properly. mushrooms are about $10-$20 depending on amount and size.
any flow but lighting is a must for them.
temp from 28 degrees or lower.


LEATHER CORALS

leather corals are the advanced beginner corals more like it.even though it is a hardy coral,it is still sensitive to parameter changes.once irritated,it will retract it's polyps for a few days until conditions are more ideal or they are beginning to adapt to the new environment.
they require current flow to remove any unwanted particles that land on the surface.
cheap ones go from $5.00-$8.00
29 degrees is the limit for these but a lower temp would make it thrive better.

ACCLIMATING CORALS
this is how i do mine. one tube for transferring tank water and another for removing.
Most essential for good coral growth.
a healthy coral is a beautiful coral.
common mistake that everyone does to the first coral is take it out of the bag and throw the coral to their favorite spot in the tank.you're right,the coral will open up for the first few hours but soon it will become stress and close up and sometimes even start to die.why?too fast and too much to handle.

proper acclimation.
while you're eager to build a mini reef, there are some things to take note; temperature,PH and salinity and lighting.

STEP 1:
temperature
upon arriving home place the bagged coral to float on top the the tank to acclimate the temperature.during this process you should turn off any lighting you have(fish will freak out but hey that's life)
float the bag for 15 mins minimum for the tank's temperature to match that of the bag water.

STEP 2:
PH and Salinity 
after removing the bag out of the water take the coral out into a bucket and pour the aquarium shop bag water in.ENSURE CORAL IS FULLY SUBMERGED or else they'll dehydrate and die fast. 
do a drip acclimation for the corals(Best method as compared to pouring a large volume of water in)

WATCH LINK FOR ACCLIMATION: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTLSbjWpePo

the entire procedure would take at least an hour.be patient and it'll all go well.if you rush this you'll end up going back to the store to buy new corals because yours are probably dead.


STEP 3:
lighting
after acclimating the PH and salinity of your corals,place them at the bottom of the tank(if they're soft or polyp corals place of a flat rock so the sand does not irritate the coral)
lower lights helps them feel more comfortable when going into a new environment.
you can alternatively place layers of shade on top of your tank if you prefer full spectrum lighting in the tank and remove 1 layer every 2 days.5 layers minimum and a duration of 10 days.
or for the more hardy corals,you can place them at the bottom and move them up to your desired location after 3-4 days.


thats about everything!
everything that you need to know to set up a basic saltwater tank is here!enjoy and all best for it!
thanks for your kind attention and if there any enquires do comment below and we'll try our best to answer to the best of our knowledge!

cheers!