setting up your first saltwater tank

Hi all back for a new post on aquarium keeping!the last time we had an introduction to freshwater keeping but this time we'll be discussing about setting up a saltwater marine tank!

first things first,price.
marine tanks dont come cheap even for a simple 1-2ft tank.an estimated cost of $200 is required to set up everything and that's just the basics.
maintenance cost would be about $50 every 3-4 months so do take into consideration before making the tank.


1) TANKS:

basic plain tank:$30-$60
basic in-build filter(IOS) tank:$80-$120


2) SUBSTANCES

seasalt: $30
dechlorinator: $1.50-$3 per bottle
nitrifying bacteria solution(optional): $12

3) EQUIPMENT:

cooling fan:$5-$20
lights:$20-$50
thermometer:$2
protein skimmer:$20-$25
powerhead:$5-$10

4) SUBSTRATE:

Live rocks: $7/kg
Sand/gravel:$5-$10

5) OTHERS EQUIPMENT(OPTIONAL BUT BENEFICIAL):

gripper/tweezers:$5
fine net:$1-$2
water pump(for water changes):$3
containment tank:$5

Pictorial Appendix below for any items you are unclear of.

Built in filter(IOS) fish tank

regular fish tank

Anti-chlorine
Dechlorinator

powerhead pump

small compact protein skimmer
dymax or boyu brand

compact cooling fan

aquarium LED lights

STEP 1:FILTRATION ARRANGEMENT

arrange your equipment neatly in the tank and make most of them easily accessible.this is important for maintenance purposes. example:if you're using an in built filter tank you can add the protein skimmer in as well so the filtration would be a smooth flow.

Sump tank filtration tank: http://briansaquariumcare.com/customfiltersumps.html

this is the best explanation on building a sump tank
arrangement of filtration is the same just that you would have a larger filtration system that will help maintain the water quality better.

definitely a more efficient system with more space.

benefit of having a separate sump thank is that you will not be able to see the filtration components.

one that we personally build under $20

overall appearance for the sump and main tank.

sump tanks are easy to build and if you can get cheap materials,it'll be even better.as of now we're learning how to construct a sump system so do bear with us on this as we're new ourselves.

Inbuilt filtration (IOS) tank: most likely,there are already components added by your local fish store that you have bought the tank from.in the even that you do not have those items do make it a point to make a checklist for the filtration media you would require.

the difference between an in built sump tank and a separate one is the limitation of space.for example,you cannot squeeze the protein skimmer in the ISO tank or can you add marine algae(natural filtration) into your IOS tank or risk getting the whole filtration system jammed.

but in every filtration system the same basic components are needed to successfully run a marine tank.

MECHANICAL:sponge filter
these vary on brand and quality.but a basic sponge will cost you no more than $3.00

this should be your first line of defense of the filtration process it removes any obvious particles/dirt/dust/solid contaminants.

BIOLOGICAL: ceramic ring or stones
most expensive filtration media but it's a one time purchase thing and a must in the filtration.a small 500g pack will go up to $10.00-$20.00

this should be your second line of filtration which will house beneficial bacteria that will remove harmful ammonia from the tank water.

CHEMICAL: Active Carbon
these go around $2.00 for a pack that can last you for months with a small tank.relatively cheap and a good idea to add these in.

removes more harmful chemicals like heavy metals and purifies the water improving the water quality so much more.

all arranged in order.

                                               Mechanical >> Biological >> Chemical

STEP 2: MIXING SUBSTANCES

MIXING SALTWATER

mixing of saltwater and cycling your tank are the essential must know things to maintain a saltwater tank.it is always easier to make your own saltwater instead of transporting saltwater from the store or going to the beach on a weekly basis to gather heavy amount of water to use.

ultimately the safest is to use saltwater mixes.

you can't just use your average cooking sea salt to mix so dont try that.you need salt that has beneficial nutrients and trace elements in them.

what brand? TROPIC MARIN (refer to picture below)

best brand ever and most reliable to me since they've been around for the longest of time.

there are instructions on the packaging to mix the saltwater.
Before adding the salt into the water, do ensure that you add dechlorinator into the tap water that you have prepared in the bucket.

floating glass hydrometer

ADJUSTING SALINITY

next add the salt accordingly.a powerhead would speed up the mixing process and save you a ton of manual labour. mixing process should be left for at least an hour to stir and mix evenly.
at the end of the mixing process, place your hydrometer in and ensure that it is in the "green" safe zone of salinity.
readings should be between 1.022-1.026 to be safe.

I personally prefer the floating kind however because it is made of thin glass do becareful not to break it.

the water will be cloudy and murky at first but don't worry it will settle and be clear after a period of time.

STEP 3: CYCLING THE TANK

add the sand/gravel into the tank and stack your live rock accordingly to preference.

slowly add the saltwater into the fish tank(do not stir too much sand and gravel up if you can) and turn on the filter powerhead.this is where cycling your tank begins.

so just what is the nitrogen cycle? simple explaination. waste from food or from living things produces ammonia.

ammonia is very harmful to any living creature even us humans.

bacteria that grows naturally from the presence of ammonia(hazardous) breaks it down to nitrite(hazardous) and eventually to nitrates(non-hazardous fish safe)

every water change removes the nitrates.... and done.that's all you need to know.

throw a piece of raw meat like prawns or fish(very small piece) and allow the the tank to run for 1-2 weeks.
remove the piece of meat and dispose at least 3 days before the end of the cycling process

you can also speed up the process of cycling the tank by adding beneficial bacteria in as well.

you can purchase an ammonia tester kit or get your local fish store to test the water for you.when the water is fish safe you can start considering what type of fish to keep.
However if you want to be more assured that your ammonia levels are down you can always buy ammonia removing solutions.a bottle like this will set you back at about $10.00.

STEP 4:CHOOSING FISH

now that all your parameters are stable and your beneficial bacteria has grown you can start adding fish!

dont just throw in any fish!

UNDERSTAND THE PARAMETERS OF YOUR TANK

a good way to gauge if your tank is ready for fish is to test the temperature and salinity of the tank.
assuming that your ammonia levels are down.
salinity should be at 1.022-1.025 to be safe as mentioned before(reminder)

most important factor of your tank is the temperature.marine fishes unlike freshwater fishes prefer lower temperatures.a temperature below 28oC will be the best and is definitely the limit to allow your fish to be comfortable and live a full life.

low temperatures are also essential for corals if you're considering to get them the future.

starter fish:

A good and cheap saltwater fish to start of, would be clown fish. they are very hardy and tolerant to changing water parameters(not for very prolong periods of time).they are so hardy that some aquarist use them to cycle the tank.

I got these guys for $2/each and they're doing well

If you're into fishing,you could also keep the small fishes you catch in the tank.take note on the size of your tank before doing this.do also note that if you use a dechlorinator solution for the water you cannot consume the fishes that you place in. wild fishes are not attracted to prepared foods so easily so you need to entice them to feed else they will die.Gobies,cardinals and perches are a good start for wild fish.

if you do choose to get fish from the aquariums instead do look out for certain factors:

1)eating well(if staff members allow you to let you observe feeding)

2)no signs of physical damage on body,fins,tail etc.

3)no white spots visable

4)swimming straight and actively

a good website to view that can guide you into getting the right fish would be:

LINK: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium-fish-supplies.cfm?c=15

Let's go through a general guide for those interested in keeping store bought fish.
checklist:
find out the diet of the fish that the pet store is feeding.
check out the substrate requirements(live rock hiding spaces or sand/gravel)

clownfish

fire fish goby

wrasse(not all are easy to keep so do research on diff species)

cleaner shrimps(reef compatible and cleans the tank well)

fox face fish(requires 2ft tank or more)

azure damsel fish

STEP 5: ACCLIMATING

You can't just throw in marine fishes into the tank and expect them to do well.maybe you might be lucky and get away with it but 90% of the time,if the fish isn't acclimated,they will stress out and either die or be susceptible to diseases such as ICH!

Don't be fooled. ICH is very common in clownfish especially and it is wise to choose a fish that has been in the aquarium shop for quite some time.do also observe whether the fish is healthy before purchasing.best bet is to ask the aquarium how long the fish has been in the shop.probably about 2 weeks would be a safer bet.

back to acclimating!

I'm sure you've seen many shows whereby they float the bag in the water 

why is this done? this is to ensure that the temperature of the water slowly changes inside the bag to the same temperature as your tank water, so the fish will not stress out at the sudden decrease or increase of temperature.

open the bag and float it in the tank.while you're doing this,add small amounts of tank water into the bag slowly. Preferably no more than 50ml every 10-15 mins and the process will take about 2 hours.this is the part that everyone finds tedious but i can assure you it's the safest and best way for a long lasting fish tank.
why do you do this?to allow the fishes to adjust themselves to the salinity of your fish tank water.

DRIP ACCLIMATION:
drip acclimation is also a more delicate way of introducing new fish to the system and will allow your fish to feel more comfortable.
feel free to see this recommended youtube video on how it's done!
LINK FOR FISH DRIP ACCLIMATION: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMCKF6DBs1w

at this point you can add small amounts of fish food in to see if the fishes are used to eating them.
next step is introduction.slowly pour the fish out into the main tank and allow them to swim freely and explore their new surroundings.

DO NOT ADD THE BAG WATER.gently net the fish up and promptly add them into the tank

DOs:
1) do let them swim freely
2) observe them and see if they are comfortable with the rock arrangements(hiding spaces..etc.)

DON'Ts:
1) don't make fast or sudden movements
2) don't poke or agitate them with objects
3) don't turn on lights for the first few hours(unless it is really dark)
4) don't stick your hand in the tank too often while the fish are new
5) don't add any food in the tank unless you're absolutely certain they will eat it immediately

STEP 6:FEEDING AND PARAMETER ADJUSTMENTS

ADJUSTMENTS

now that you've successfully set up a marine tank,it's time to regulate the parameters which is the most important thing.none can be more important than...

SALINITY
ensure the floating hydrometer stays within the green zone and do not go above or below.

if the hydrometer sinks too much it means that your water is too fresh and you need to add more salt
if the hydrometer floats higher it means that the water is too salty and salinity is too high so you should add decholorinated water.

TEMPERATURE
ensure that temperature stays at 28 degrees or below and do not exceed 29.
use a cooling fan if you must but do invest in a good one and it'll be worthwhile to have.
cooling fans will effectively lower the water temperature by 3-4 degrees but do note that because it promotes evaporation,you have to consistently add freshwater top ups.

alternatively you can purchase a mini chiller for $170 if you are running a 10-20 gallon(30-60Litres) tank.
I recommend the AL30 model which can be purchased in Singapore from:
LINK: http://www.eastoceansg.com/al30-mini-chiller-for-10l-to-30l-tank-p-1668.html

fully adjustable mini chiller from 10-30 degrees Celsius

FEEDING
choosing the right food for the right fish is the most important.you can set up everything successfully but in the end,if the fish isn't eating well it will get weaker and eventually die.

most marine fishes eat brine shrimp(dead or live) that can be bought from most aquariums for $3.00 a pack which will last you for a month if you keep less than 5 fishes.

dried pellet food is always the best and causes less pollution which doesn't cause ammonia spikes in the tank if over fed.

I've been using this for my clowns and they are eating really well

STEP 7: MAINTENANCE

WATER TOP UPS

if you're like me and just cannot afford a legitimate chiller for your tank,you can try using a cooling fan.
cooling fans are cheap and not as power consuming as chillers.
however using a cheaper alternative cooling method has its disadvantages.Evaporation is the main issue. a cooling fan can evaporate about 1-2 gallons of water everyday and it is necessary to top up the tank with freshwater to maintain a stable salinity.
you can make this task more convenient by storing dechlorinated water in a bottle so you do not have to keep mixing the anti chlorinator everyday.

a good method is to mark your tank's water level and if it falls below that mark you can top it up to the same level.



WATER CHANGE

water changes will solve most of your problems if you detect that parameters are off.

do a water change every 2 weeks and change 10-20% of your saltwater from your tank.

ensure salinity of the new saltwater is same or very close to that of the tank to avoid any stress on the fish.

do not clean the sand/gravel unless absolutely necessary. marine tanks require mature substrate to thrive especially if you intend of keeping crustaceans(shrimps,crabs etc)

how do you change?instead of inserting a pail into the tank and freaking out all the fishes,there is a much easier and inconspicuous way.Simply by using a plastic water pump that will do all the work for you.do not allow nozzle of the pump to touch the bottom where is sand or gravel is or it will be stucked up as well.

CLEANING FILTRATION

PROTEIN SKIMMER

remove the collection cup and pour away all the scum that is present inside and wash it well before replacing it back.(weekly basis)

collection cup

PIPING

sometimes, an overgrowth of algae may happen in the piping and it is advise to use a thin cleaning brush to it wipe away to ensure a smooth flow of water.(monthly or bi-monthy is fine)

FILTRATION MEDIA

remove your sponge filter and wash it clean.(weekly basis)

bio filters are usually left alone and not washed.washing will rid the media of the beneficial bacteria therefore it is not necessary to wash it unless it is clogging up with dirt and algae.even so only wash the bio media 50% or less clean to ensure there is still sufficent beneficial bacteria still on.(yearly basis)

DISEASE AND CONTROL

ICH disease on a clownfish

so far I've only encountered the ICH disease in my tank.

white spots are the best indication

if left untreated for awhile, gills may appear inflamed slightly and body colour starts to dull.

swimming patterns become strange and fishes will start rubbing against rocks or gravel/sand.

solution:

Isolate your fish if you have a containment tank

increase water temperature to 28-29 degrees Celsius.

ICH parasites lifecycle is sped up with the increase of temperature.

remove your active carbon and turn off your protein skimmers as these will render the medication ineffective.

buy ICH medication solutions. and follow the instructions on the label.

recommended and used by most aquariums and does not harm corals or invertebrates 

the ICH parasite has a lifespan of 5 days without a fish host

however if you only have 1 tank like me, you would require the full indicated dosage of 2 weeks to cure.at this point,the fishes will be weak and will not eat as much.fatality may happen so don't be disheartened.(sorry to all the fish lovers but that's why you always start with captive bred clownfish for starters).

STEP 8: CORAL CARE

Once you've been running your marine tank for a month,you're all ready for corals if your temperature and current flow allows it.

the level of difficulty is different for every coral and must be carefully considered and researched before purchasing.

photosynthetic corals are safer for beginners who tend of forget supplementation or feeding. of course if you're one to pay less attention to your aquarium,then preferably you should stick to artificial coral inserts instead.

Equipment you will need:

lighting(for photosynthetic corals)

GENERAL RULE:

florescent T5 lighting:4 watts per gallon

LED lighting:1-2 watts per gallon

LEDs do work for coral growth and are energy saving as well as cooler(do not heat up)

what's the difference? for every 5 watts florescent lights produce about 3 watts is wasted on heat. florescent also lasts shorter then LEDs but the benefit of having that is the PAR.basically means the light penetration properties.

Cheap LED's tend not to penetrate easily and are not effective for corals.instead,invest in good wattage and higher PAR level LEDs and they'll support the corals needs and it will also be less power consuming in the long run.

just a guideline I found online.

  

Current:

A wave maker or powerhead can be useful for a bigger tank because the flow rate will be lower and the filter return powerhead just isn't that effective to generate a proper current.

depending on the size of our tank,invest in a good wave maker and it'll make a world of difference for the tank.some corals require current to remove any dirt or particles that are stuck.this reduces the irritation and allows the corals to open up well.

HAMMER CORAL

they are about $20.00-$30.00 depending on size

hammer corals are one of the most beautiful corals to have in your aquarium.Anemones require more advanced expertise and care and hammers are the next best thing with similar characteristics. they are photosynthetic and do well with actinic lighting(blue light) that isn't too bright or intense(LED).

they are more of an advanced coral and should only be kept with more experienced.

they should be placed at the mid section of the tank with some shade covering as they do not do so well with intense lighting unlike SPS corals. temperature of 28 degrees is required.

FEATHER DUSTERS

feather dusters are filter feeding worms.yes they are in fact worms but very beautiful ones. they require a more mature tank environment but if your tank has no natural micro plankton available,you can buy them in powder or liquid form.

these can be placed any area of the tank and has no temperature preference

powder plankton:$3.00-$5.00

liquid plankton solution:$10.00-$15.00 

corals are very sensitive to their environment.a sudden shift in temperature,PH and salinity will affect them greatly.water changes need to be consistent if you are considering to keep them.

POLYPS and ZOAS

they come in a variety of colours but most are green and red.very easy to keep and are photosynthetic

most aquarist place them at the bottom or mid section of the live rock section.

temperature of 28 degrees with low or moderate flow will be good.

temp of 28 degrees the most.

MUSHROOMS

these are the most hardy among all beginner corals and are relatively worry free.

they come in blue,red and green and some even orange.

placement will be from bottom to top but do acclimate them properly. mushrooms are about $10-$20 depending on amount and size.

any flow but lighting is a must for them.

temp from 28 degrees or lower.

LEATHER CORALS

leather corals are the advanced beginner corals more like it.even though it is a hardy coral,it is still sensitive to parameter changes.once irritated,it will retract it's polyps for a few days until conditions are more ideal or they are beginning to adapt to the new environment.

they require current flow to remove any unwanted particles that land on the surface.

cheap ones go from $5.00-$8.00

29 degrees is the limit for these but a lower temp would make it thrive better.

ACCLIMATING CORALS

this is how i do mine. one tube for transferring tank water and another for removing.

Most essential for good coral growth.

a healthy coral is a beautiful coral.

common mistake that everyone does to the first coral is take it out of the bag and throw the coral to their favorite spot in the tank.you're right,the coral will open up for the first few hours but soon it will become stress and close up and sometimes even start to die.why?too fast and too much to handle.

proper acclimation.

while you're eager to build a mini reef, there are some things to take note; temperature,PH and salinity and lighting.

STEP 1:

temperature

upon arriving home place the bagged coral to float on top the the tank to acclimate the temperature.during this process you should turn off any lighting you have(fish will freak out but hey that's life)

float the bag for 15 mins minimum for the tank's temperature to match that of the bag water.

STEP 2:

PH and Salinity 

after removing the bag out of the water take the coral out into a bucket and pour the aquarium shop bag water in.ENSURE CORAL IS FULLY SUBMERGED or else they'll dehydrate and die fast. 

do a drip acclimation for the corals(Best method as compared to pouring a large volume of water in)

WATCH LINK FOR ACCLIMATION: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTLSbjWpePo

the entire procedure would take at least an hour.be patient and it'll all go well.if you rush this you'll end up going back to the store to buy new corals because yours are probably dead.

STEP 3:

lighting

after acclimating the PH and salinity of your corals,place them at the bottom of the tank(if they're soft or polyp corals place of a flat rock so the sand does not irritate the coral)

lower lights helps them feel more comfortable when going into a new environment.

you can alternatively place layers of shade on top of your tank if you prefer full spectrum lighting in the tank and remove 1 layer every 2 days.5 layers minimum and a duration of 10 days.

or for the more hardy corals,you can place them at the bottom and move them up to your desired location after 3-4 days.

thats about everything!

everything that you need to know to set up a basic saltwater tank is here!enjoy and all best for it!

thanks for your kind attention and if there any enquires do comment below and we'll try our best to answer to the best of our knowledge!

cheers!